Dyeing with wool and synthetic dyes

Instructor Vicki's experiment with color gradation. 

In October a talented friend who spins her own yarn drove us to a workshop at Pro Chemical and Dye (more familiarly known as ProChem), a dyer's supply resource in Fall River, Massachusetts. We learned about dyeing wool using ProChem's line of WashFast Acid Dyes.  We worked with pre-made stock solutions so did not need the masks and other safety equipment necessary for working with dye powders.  Quality control officer and experienced dyer Vicki Jensen led the class.

Pre-mixed dye solutions - red, blue and yellow.

Day 1 of the two-day workshop introduced immersion dyeing.  ProChem's color palette of dyes is based on 21 "base colors", which the company buys from manufacturers. Every other color in ProChem's range is mixed from these 21 colors.  So, on the first day, the seven of us each dyed wool in three of the colors, to make our own color charts featuring the 21 base colors.

Graduated cylinders and syringes ensure accuracy.

The first step is to soak the undyed bundles of yarn in a Synthrapol solution, which prepares the fibers to soak up the dye. Synthrapol is a detergent and wetting agent.

Additional components for dyeing - Synthrapol, salt and citric acid.

5 grams of undyed worsted wool.

So, I was assigned colors 10, 11 and 12 of the color chart. Using the formulas provided, I mixed the amounts of water, salt and citric acid, as well as the three primary colors, to make my dye pot. The formulas are based on OWG, or "on weight of goods" - the weight of the dry, undyed fiber.  The most important piece of equipment for the home dyer might be the digital scale.  Needless to say, all work was done while wearing rubber gloves.

Bottles of the three colors we used to make our color chart.

I mixed colors 10, 11, and 12.

The small bundles of yarn are added to the dye and stirred.

Shortly after immersion the bundles all the dye was deposited on the fiber - the water became clear. Magic! The bundles were then  heated in simmering water in giant stainless steel pots, which Vicki stirred every few minutes.  After the final step, a rinse in tepid plain water,  the little bundles were hung up to dry overnight.

Twenty-one  dyed skeins for our color charts.

Everyone had done an excellent job with their measuring and dyeing, and the next day we cut up the skeins into sample lengths and assembled our color charts.

Each student received a chart of 21 base colors.

One group of students volunteered to dye the gradations for this swatch chart.

A feast of color.

On Day 2 we switched from immersion dyeing to "rainbow dyeing", essentially painting the dye onto prepared skeins, using disposable foam brushes. I would have preferred to have consolidated my understanding of immersion dyeing.  However, at least I now understand something of the process used by hand-dyers to achieve multi-colored yarns and the challenges facing the hand-dyer trying to achieve consistent colors for a commercial product range.

This type of yarn is popular, for sure - look at the success of Noro, for example - but my knitting emphasizes stitch definition and texture, rather than a multi-color palette. (Although I do like tonal yarns....)  Still, it's good to leave one's comfort zone every now and then.

Some of the pre-mixed dye solutions ready for our use.

Wonderful color combinations by my friend Robin, on her own hand-spun yarn.

We use dyes which had been pre-mixed and first soaked our yarns in a solution of water, citric acid and Synthrapol.  Soaked skeins were wring out and placed on cling film, then the dye was painted on with the foam brushes. It was a slow process for  me, and I ran out of time before coloring even half my yarn.

After painting, the skeins were wrapped in more cling film and these bundles were placed in steamer baskets in giant pots. After steaming the yarn bundles are unwrapped and rinsed in tepid water.

Steamed bundles of dye-painted skeins, cooling off.

My four painted skeins.

Broken garter scarf knit with two colors of hand-dyed yarn.

Here are two of the skeins, balled and knit into an almost-completed scarf.