16 August 2011

Images 2011 and more


Impressions of Lowell
Top row, one of the waterways that powered the mills.
Middle row, Left to right: 1) Antique Maine quilt
2) New England Quilt Museum
3) James MacNeil Whistler.
Bottom row, 1) lunch at La Boniche 2) Historic building.

On Saturday, August 13, DH and I packed in a full day of quilt viewing, taking in three - count 'em - quilt exhibits, all part of the Lowell Quilt Festival. (Click on any image to enlarge it.)

A good crowd at Images 2011.
A selection of antique red and white quilts from the NEQM
can be seen hanging from the balcony.

Our first stop was Images 2011, the annual show sponsored by the New England Quilt Museum (NEQM) auxiliary. My quilt "Radial Motion" was juried in, so of course we had to see it basking in its fifteen minutes of fame. In a change from previous years, the show was not held at the Tsongas arena, a hockey rink, but rather at Lowell Memorial Auditorium. I prefer this new venue - easier to navigate, and less of a coliseum feel.

A pineapple-type log cabin pattern of strong graphic intensity. By Pat Harrison.


First Impression, Kathleen Murphy.


The Tsar's Decree, by Megan Farkas.
Based on a 1905 illustration by Ivan Bilibin
for a tale by Alexander Pushkin.



Original illustration.
Source: http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/ivan-bilibin/illustration-for-alexander-pushkin-s-fairytale-of-the-tsar-saltan-1937

How wonderful to see a connection between a quilter in 21st America and a Russian illustrator working before the first World War. I love the idea of quilters re-interpreting illustrations by artists who worked in traditional two-dimensional media. The translation from illustration to quilt inherently brings adaptations and changes, making a new work.

For example, the quilting stitches suggest the water flow in a manner almost superior to the linework of the 2-d illustration, and the stars of the illustration have been interpreted using Swarovski crystals, which literally sparkle in the blue cloth sky.


In the Pushkin story The Tale of Tsar Saltan, the eponymous tsar chooses the youngest of three sisters to be his wife and tsarina; the elder sisters are teeth-grindingly jealous. Saltan goes off to war, and the envious sisters waste no time placing the tsarina and her young son, Prince Gvidon, into a barrel, which is tossed into the sea.

The sea, in a benevolent guise, takes pity on the mother and child, and casts them up on shore. (This is the scene in the quilt). In their new land Prince Gvidon - who grew quickly in the barrel, evidently - rescues a magic swan. After various adventures, the swan turns out to be a beautiful enchanted princess, whom Gvidon marries. He and his mother are also reunited with Tsar Saltan, and all live happily ever.

Ocean Treasures, by Norma Schlager.

The Sea was the theme of the juried art quilt show at the Brush Art Gallery and Studios, which we visited for the first time. Some artists who work in this complex also had concurrent open studios, and much of the work was very impressive. The Gallery is in the same re-purposed mill complex as the National Park Service Visitors' Center for the Lowell National Historical Park.

More info about the Brush Gallery can be found here: www.thebrush.org/


Time is as Weak as Water, Carol Anne Grotrian.

Some artists in the show are from my quilt guild, including Carol Anne Grotrian, who dyes the wonderful shibori fabrics she uses in her quilts.

Sea Spray, Valerie Maser-Flanagan.


Valerie Maser-Flanagan, Last Light.

One artist, Valerie Maser-Flanagan, had a quilt at the Brush Gallery and also at our next stop, a quilt exhibit at the birthplace of painter James MacNeil Whistler. Also the headquarters of the Lowell Art Association, this house museum displays some etchings and drawings by Whistler, period furniture, and paintings by his contemporaries such as William Morris Hunt. Worth a stop if you're in the area. More info: www.whistlerhouse.org/

Art Quilts at the Whistler.

Like most exhibits that are limited in size, this small show would have benefited from a theme or other unifying concept; as hung it was a rather random assortment of attractive contemporary art quilts. Nothing wrong with that, but the whole never rose above the sum of the parts.

Robinson Farm Girl, Vita Marie Lovett.
An excellent example of the "thread-painting"
approach
to contemporary quilting.


11 July 2011

Vermont Quilt Festival 2011

Feathered Star made about 1900 by Cynthia Lamoureaux.

The 2011 Festival, from June 24-26, was a popular event, judging from the crowds at the Champagne and Chocolate reception on Thursday night. The VQF is a judged show, meaning that each contestant receives a rating, with comments, from a panel of judges. This year the adjudicators worshiped at the altar of machine quilting, and, since I am an apostate, I'll not comment on this year's top contest winners, which may be seen at the Festival's website.

The website is found at: www.vqf.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1&Itemid=1


The evolution of stationary machine quilting into ever-more labyrinthine, fussy and congested stitchery, which often can't even been seen unless the viewer practically noses the quilt, has no appeal for me, especially as the dense application of thread renders the quilt surface flat and the quilt stiff. What's the difference between this kind of quilting and machine embroidery? The "More is Better" approach seems particularly pointless when all that stitching belabors a pieced or appliqued top that is essentially boring or awkward.

I don't understand the popularity of this kind of quilting, and can't help but wonder if it is linked to advertising revenue - the latest edition of Quilter's Newsletter Magazine, the grandmama of quilt periodicals, has three full-page ads for machine quilting equipment, in addition to ads for expensive sewing machines marketed for both embroidery and machine quilting. To what extent is the promotion of machine quilting all about the business of quilting, as opposed to the art of quilting?

I'll get off my soapbox now, and, in any event, there were some very beautiful quilts at the Festival, and a special display, Patterns of History: Quilts from the Vermont Historical Society Collection, among other special exhibits. DH and I also had a great time exploring the sights of downtown Burlington.

Festival faculty Mickey Lawlor used machine-quilting
purposefully to evoke sense wind and tide.

In the past, I have taken a workshop with Mickey Lawlor sponsored by my quilt guild, so it was a treat to see one of the her quilts made from her hand-painted fabric.

Ice on the Sawmill River, Ann Feitelson.


Queen of Quilts, Leslie Justice Cook.
Pattern by Jeanne Kimball, with a fresh color palette.


Hot Flash, Allita Paine. (Quilted by Janice Cutting.)
A particularly nice border (Deb Tucker design) on this Hunter's Star quilt.


Sunny Lilies, Noah Patullo.
Old favorite pattern, in punchy colors,
with exciting corner treatment.


First Lorraine Went to Egypt, Barbara Polston.
Top prize, miniature quilt division.
Inspired by Egyptian artist Chant Avedissian.


Queen of My Heart, Holly Dominie.
One of the best portrait quilts I've seen.


Puzzled Yankee: A Tangram Quilt, Hope Johnson.
Tangrams are one of my favorite toys-for-all-ages,
and what a fun theme for a quilt.

Happy Days, Sheila Groman.
Nice to see the tradition of the crazy quilt continue, updated.


I spent much of my time admiring the quilts from the Vermont Historical Society and musing on the links between the antique and contemporary quilts.

Antique crazy quilt, in a zig-zag format. (Unknown artist.)


Top and bottom left: Redwork quilt with blocks
embroidered by
Mary Putnam in the 19th Century;
quilt assembled circa 1930 by unknown quilter.
Bottom right,
Cats in Plaid, Kirsten Barwood.

A love of pet cats spans the ages, and I would recommend Sandi Fox's book Cats on Quilts (ISBN 9780810957251) to fellow cat lovers. I was disappointed to note few redwork or sashiko quilts in this year's VQF.

Details of antique quilts.


Crazy quilt variation, Philea A. Spear, 1909.

One of my favorite antique quilts, with a very contemporary feel, was a crazy quilt made by Philea Spear in her eighty-fourth year. At first glance, randomness seem to rule, but each block center is carefully pieced and the color palette is very consistent, with enough contrast so that each minute piece reads individually in the welter of shapes and colors.

Detail, Spear quilt.


DH, in his patchwork shirt, examines an
antique quilt by Mary Jane Peaselee Vitty.


Program cover design by Mary Azarian.

Finally, kudos to the Festival for utilizing the talents of Caldecott medalist Mary Azarian for the cover artwork.

http://www.maryazarian.com/

09 July 2011

African Textiles at the MFA



Examples of kente cloth, from Ghana.

Global Patterns: Textiles and Dress in Africa is on view through January 8, 2012; learn more here: http://www.mfa.org/exhibitions/global-patterns

Wedding outfit of extraordinary beadwork.
Note the ornamented broom, symbol of housewives everywhere.


Wedding ensemble, rear view with beaded train.

As I walked through this exhibit, I developed a heightened sensibility towards the garb and accessories adorning my fellow visitors, who included a tall young man, extensively tattooed, wearing "ventilated" shorts, a souvenir T-shirt and toting a messenger bag, as well as adolescent girls in crocs footwear, flowery t-shirts and, inevitably, women dressed like me, in sensible sandals, crop pants and jewelry or scarves, to distract from the wrinkles.

Left, photo of tribal leader, from 1959.
Right, detail of beaded crown, mid-20th century.


As Boston Globe critic Sebastian Smee notes in his excellent review, this exhibit, for once, places African artifacts in a context - in addition to the textiles, there are sculptures and images, including postcards and photos, of people dressed in comparable items.

See Smee's piece here: http://articles.boston.com/2011-05-06/ae/29517367_1_textiles-african-objects-african-countries

We Westerners seem conflicted by the signals we receive as we view the costume of others around us and in the media - on the one hand we "shouldn't judge a book by its cover," nevertheless "clothes make the man." In Sub-Saharan Africa, the region from which these artifacts originate, there seems to be less confusion about the role of wardrobe and identity. As this exhibit demonstrates, in these cultures a highly refined approach to attire deliberately telegraphs characteristics such as level of affluence, personal aspirations, and even marital status, in a very direct way.

Wrapper, mid-20th century, imported for the African market.
A woman who wore this fabric valued education and learning.

Wrapper, early 21st century, celebrates the opening of a
Coca-Cola
bottling plant in Mozambique, in 2004.

Apparel fabric announces that the wearer is up to date,
and cognizant of technology.
(Apologies for the blurry photo.)

While we tend to view colonialism as purely exploitative, this exhibit also makes clear that Western imagery could be creatively co-opted by African artists, resulting in designs that became part of a textile tradition which managed to survive into the post-colonial era.

Resist-dyed fabric with design based on
Silver Jubilee
images of British monarchs.


Left, raffia skirt, Republic of Congo, 2oth century.
Upper right, Bonwit Teller ad for African-inspired frocks.
Bottom right, wide trim produced in France,
copying the indigenous cloth.

In addition, Westerners learned from African artists, particularly in the 1920's when artists such as Picasso and Braque were admiring African masks and other art, often brought back to Europe by Belgian colonists.

Beaded crown with bird finial.The human face, with cowrie-shell eyes, symbolizes that the leader is all-seeing.

14 June 2011

Sashiko pillow

Design combines sakura - cherry blossom motifs -
and traditional hemp pattern.

My second sashiko project is this pillow. I purchased the pre-printed design on cloth from Miho Takeuchi at a quilt show and selected the dark blue and orange threads. After stitching, I added 2" borders to the design and backed it with the same batik fabric, purchased from The Fabric Corner, in Arlington, which has the best selection of batik fabrics around. Inserted a 16" polyester-stuffed pillow form and voila! - a gift for my Japanese language teacher. I hope she likes it.

Miho's website is:
http://www.designbyaika.com/

The Fabric Corner's website is: http://www.fabriccornerinc.com/

02 June 2011

Sonia Delaunay at Cooper-Hewitt

Montage of textiles designs.
All images from

Color Moves: Art & Fashion by Sonia Delaunay.

In March, Jay and I went to Manhattan to view a super exhibit at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum, http://www.cooperhewitt.org/exhibitions/color-moves


In the "roaring twenties",
Delaunay had her own fashion house.

Color Moves: Art & Fashion by Sonia Delaunay, on view until June 19, 2011, is an expansive survey of the work of Sonia Delaunay (1885-1979) with an emphasis on her textile designs.


The exhibit is upstairs from a show of Van Cleef and Arpel jewelry, a shameless display of over-the-top-bling for the rich and famous. So, security was tight throughout the building, and photography was not allowed. The images in this blog entry were scanned from the eponymous exhibit catalog.

More images can also be seen in the excellent review of the show by NYT reporter Roberta Smith:

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/18/arts/design/sonia-delaunay-show-at-cooper-hewitt-review.html


Top row: sketches.
Bottom row, right: sketch made into repeating fabric design.
Bottom row, left: design card, with colorways.



Fabric sample.


Following the Depression, Delaunay closed her fashion house but developed a special relationship with the fashion-forward Metz Department Store in Amsterdam, selling textile designs for their exclusive use. Importantly, both Delaunay’s sketchbooks and Metz Company documents survive, allowing us to see the process of apparel fabric production from artist’s sketch to finished fabric.


Top: Design card with colorways.
Bottom: master print.

The translation of sketch to yardage is a multi-step affair, including fine-tuning the original motif, creating the print repeat, and keying the gouache sketch palette to fabric inks. Somehow, in the hands of an obviously sympathetic textile manufacturer, these steps improved upon Delaunay’ s delightful initial sketches, with the end result being scrolls of pattern that happen to be bolts of fabric.


Snippets of fabric samples, with color chips and notes.

As Roberta Smith states in her review, the show …may change forever the way you look at dry goods. I know that, if these designs were in fabric stores today, I would be adding them to my fabric stash.


Large fabric sample.

Catalog: ISBN 978-0-910503-84-6


11 May 2011

From alizarine to vermilion: color history

The book cover features a box of Foinet artist's pastels, c. 1930.

The production of dyes and pigments for use on textiles has had a huge influence on human events, yet conventional histories largely ignore this thread (pun intended.) "Colors: The Story of Dyes and Pigments" is a profusely-illustrated book that travels from 40,000-year-old painted caves in France to the chemistry cartels of Germany, weaving a fascinating tale conflating commerce, industry and art.

There are many examples of the impact of consumer demand for better textile colorants on world history. For instance, while it was a British chemist who invented the first commercially exploitable synthetic dye, cheap labor in the British colonies continued to prop up the use of natural dyes for textiles. Germany, which had come late to the table as a colonial power, sought solutions in industry, and in their search for domestically-produced pigments German chemists helped invent the field of organic chemistry. By 1904, Germany was exporting massive amounts of synthetic indigo, to the detriment of colonial India and the ports of France; as the books states, "many markets were lost to German chemistry".

Indigo dyer at work.
The British established an agricultural
monoculture of indigo in India.


British chemist William Perkin with shawl featuring yarn
tinted with his synthetic mauveine.

There are also particularly fascinating sections on color in medieval iconography, the toxicity of some early pigments, and the emergence of chromatics, the science of color and perception.

This book is the nearest approximation of an economic and cultural history of textile pigments and dyes that I've found to date, and has excellent production values, a good index and appendices of primary documents and further reading.

Nuts and bolts info: authors Francois Delamare and Bernard Gu
ineau; ISBN 0-8109-2872-8.







05 May 2011

Art of Lan-Chiann Wu

Lantern Festival, Lan-Chiann Wu.

Through my blog, I have had the opportunity to connect with many wonderful people, including award-winning artist Lan-Chiann Wu. Ms. Wu is one of the few women working professionally in the medium of Chinese ink brush painting and was kind enough to contact me after viewing my blog entry of the "Fresh Ink" exhibit at the MFA earlier this season. With Ms. Wu's consent, I have posted some images from her website, www.thetranquilstudio.com

But Lan-Chiann's big news is her participation in "3 Paths to Expression" at the Sam Maloof Foundation, www.malooffoundation.org, from March 3 through September 3, 2011. Sadly, I have no plans to visit the Los Angeles vicinity this year, but the exhibit looks well worth a trip if you're in the area. A MacArthur "genius grant" recipient, Sam Maloof (1916 - 2009) was, along with Wendell Castle and George Nakashima, one of the foremost furniture craftsmen of the 20th century. Maloof's work is in many museum collections, including Boston's Museum of Fine Arts.


Ms. Wu's work reminds me of another MFA-related artist, Childe Hassam. As in Hassam's views of city life, there is a tenderness in her renderings of people in city scenes and village landscapes that is appealing without being overly sentimental. Both artists also use the color red judiciously to establish depth and to create a spark of tension in the scene.

Snowflakes Quietly Descending, Lan-Chiann Wu.


Snowstorm in Madison Square, Childe Hassam.
Image source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Childe_Hassam_Snowstorm_Madison_Square.jpg

In addition to painting and drawing, Ms. Wu, like Mr. Maloof, also works in furniture design, creating delightful lacquer vignettes for casegoods. I hope that some of her work will come to the East coast in the near future!

Design for furniture, Lan-Chiann Wu.


Lacquer design on casegoods, detail, Lan-Chiann Wu.


Credenza with finished lacquer decoration, Lan-Chiann Wu.